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Instead of making the 90-minute drive back to Roseau from the Carib Reserve, overnight at the Carib Reserve Guest House operated by Caribs Charles and Margaret Williams. All have fans and most have private bathrooms. Breakfast and dinner are available on request. Phone and fax: (767) 445-7256.

The Kalinago Centre in Roseau at 54 King George V Street offers traditional Carib art, photographic and document displays and other information on the Carib community and its people.

The Centre is an economic development enterprise sponsored by the Waitikubuli Karifuna Development Agency, a non-profit organization concerned with the preservation and development of Carib culture and traditions. Cal (767) 448-1753.

The Emerald Pool on the Castle Bruce Road , the southern entryway to the Reserve, is one of Dominica 's most famous and popular landmarks. It's just a 10-minute, quarter-mile trek on a path/boardwalk past many varieties of tropical plants, ferns and flowers.

The blue-green grotto and its small pool filled by a picturesque waterfall are a popular swimming hole. Very crowded on cruise ship days and on weekends. Come early to enjoy the silence.

The pool is especially striking on overcast days when all the shades of green are fully revealed.

Just south of Portsmouth on the north coast is the Indian River, so-named because it was once the site of a Carib settlement.

The river flows into the ocean, but the popular tour here heads inland on an hour-long relaxing boat ride up the river to a visitor center offering drinks and snacks. The trip starts in open water and then moves into a luxuriant canopy.

Many varieties of ferns and bwa mang trees with their twisted buttressed roots grow on the riverbank.

Make sure the guide rows to the site and doesn't use an outboard motor, which frightens off some of the more interesting sights. Bargain with the guides for the best price.

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