22. Ram Head
Trail Hiking
Hike Length:
1 mile from Salt Pond Bay Beach. 1.02 miles from the road gate. Time:
45 minutes each way. Difficulty: 2-3. Wear shoes, not
sandals, because of all the loose cactus spines on the Ram Head atrail. Take plenty
of water and sun protection.
Trailhead:
You must first make the short walk to Salt Pond Bay and pick up the
Ram Head trail at the southern end of the Salt Pond Bay Beach.
I consider this
the best hike on all of St. John. A sunrise hike is
the most pleasant.
Go too close
to sunset and you'll come home in the dark. This is not a trail to walk
for the first time in pitch black, even with the best of flashlights.
The trail eventually
leads to Ram Head Point, that striking hump of green landscape off in
the distance to your right. The views from the point are spectacular
and the deeply cut shoreline is impressive.
Geologically,
Ram Head Point is composed of the oldest rock found on St. John.
This hike
can be confusing because the trail is not well marked. Furthermore,
many different false trails have been made by people trying to reach
Ram Head Point.
This is the
one hike on the island where you need to pay close attention to the
accompanying directions to avoid getting lost.
If you do wander
afield, you won't come to any harm; the hike will just take a lot longer.
Possibly hours longer.
Runaway
slaves apparently lived at Ram Head Point in the 1700s. Although
the ground is rocky and thorny, living would have been relatively easy.
Whelks could easily be taken from Salt Pond Bay and the point is always
cooled by the trade winds.
During the slave
rebellion of 1733 a number of slaves (somewhere between 8-12) committed
suicide at the point. Legends says they leaped to their deaths on the
rocks below rather than face recapture. Other accounts relate that they
committed suicide with firearms.
To find
the trail, go to the far end at Salt Pond Bay. The trail leaves
Salt Pond Bay about 0.1 miles after the Park Service sign that indicates
the trail split between Ram Head and Drunk Bay. The sign is near the
end of the sandy beach on Salt Pond Bay. In some spots you'll be able
to discern a trail of sorts among the rocks, but for many yards there
is no indication anyone has ever passed this way before. Have
faith.
After about
0.25 miles you'll find an obvious, identifiable trail that begins to
climb above Salt Pond Bay. The path follows the top of a ridge and then
descends to Blue Rock Beach. The color of the stones
explains why. Avoid the trail going off to the left that appears to
skirt the ridge. You'll come down to Blue Rock Beach near a fallen tree
where an aged, very thick rope lies across the trail, marking it.
The rope hung in the tree when it was still standing.
Remember this
sight: It's your trail marker coming back.
You'll walk
the rocky shoreline for about 0.25 miles. However, unlike at the first
rocky beach, there are many indications of previous hikers. Some have
even built miniature stone cairns.
Most of the
cairns are meaningless construction. Look for a bright red post that
will signal when it's time to leave the beach and start climbing
upward.
Climbing,
avoid the many side trails. Follow the path and its several
switchbacks along the ridge. The trail will come almost to the edge
of the east shore at a gut, a truly striking ravine, where the wind
can blow at gale force.
To the east,
there's nothing but open ocean between you and the nearest coastline:
Africa.
Walk carefully
because of all the hundreds (thousands?) of barrel cactus. You'll probably
see wild goats. And envy their agility on this uneven terrain. Standing
on the peak of Ram Head Point, you'll be almost 200 feet above
sea level.
Returning, find
the red post that points to the return trail from Blue Rock Beach. Look
for the thick rope across the trail, turn left at the fallen tree and
you'll be on the trail.
If you stay
on the beach and go past the rope, you should still encounter the trail
once you're forced to start climbing uphill.
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