Plenty of good ecotourism outfits.

Where to Stay: The Fort Young Hotel in Roseau is the island's largest facility; the food and service are good. Most of the other places to overnight in Roseau are guesthouses of varying quality. The Anchorage Hotel, also located on the Caribbean, has large rooms, good food and reliable service.

Tipping & Taxes: A standard 10% service charge, plus a 5% government tax at hotels and a 3% government sales tax for food, drinks and merchandise. There is a US$14 departure tax.

Camping: Not permitted in the national parks and generally not allowed anywhere.

Health/Safety Warnings: The walk around Freshwater Lake recently seems to be attracting muggers and thieves who break into rental cars to steal valuables. It's suggested you never visit this area alone, but with several other people.

Hiking/Walking Services: Dominica 's best-known guide service is Ken's Hinterland Adventure Tours & Taxi Service (KHATTS) Ltd. It offers all of the major hikes as well as scenic coastal drives. The guides are very knowledgeable locals. Don't be surprised if you find a woman leading the hike to the Boiling Lake . For Dominicans, this arduous trek is like a walk up a steep set of stairs. Contact
www.kenshinterlandtours.com

Ras Tours operates from Cocoa Cottage located at Trafalgar. This bed and breakfast in the Roseau Valley is close to many of the most popular trailheads; contact Bobby Frederick at 767/448-0412. Motor coach tours to some of the most popular sites are the specialty of Raffoul Luxury Tours. Call 767/449-1040/2443. Fax 767/449-2208

For a list of tour operators, go to www.dominica.dm/touroperators.htm

A guided hike to the Valley of Desolation and the Boiling Lake costs about $80 per person. You can cut costs by taking a chance and picking your own guide in the village of Laudat near the beginning of the trailhead. You're bound to meet locals who will offer to guide you, and some will do a good job for far less money. However, you probably won't have any references or other credentials to base your selection on. In this case, your adventure begins as soon as you start looking for a guide. You can always contact the tourist office to see if they can recommend anyone.

Snakes & Other Venomous Creatures: The native boa (called the clouded-face boa) grows up to six feet long, but it eats rodents and is harmless to humans. There are no poisonous snakes.

 For More Information: On the Web,www.dominica.dm .

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