Guanaja, too mountainous for roads

Long known for its thick forest of Caribbean pines, Guanaja lost the trees to to Hurricane Mitch in the late 90s.

However, the island has regained its green, lush look that makes it one of the region's most beautiful.

Lacking any roads, Guanaja is home to most of the Bay Islands' upper scale dive resorts such as Posada del Sol whose 23 guest rooms are divided into three different levels: hillside, ocean front and poolside.

Without any telephones or TVs, Posada del Sol's guest rooms feature heavy mahogany furniture, marbled baths, slatted windows and ceiling fans. Some units also have air-conditioning, a treat in the Bay Islands.

Another popular resort is the Bayman Bay Club but it's considerably more rustic. Its web site is also in Spanish only.

Most of Guanaja's population doesn't live on the island but favors the small offshore cay of Bonacca, originally settled by Caymanians who couldn't stand Guanaja's ferocious sand flies.

Bonacca, a maze of small streets, is still growing as more people start building out over the water.

Commercial shrimpers and fishing boats dock here and at Guanaja's large seafood processing center.

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